This Tailcoat has no waist seam, no lapel / front seam and is double breasted with the bottom 3 buttons meant to be buttoned. When buttoned the collar and lapels bow out to make room for shirt, cravat, and up to two vests. The collar stands approximately 3 inches tall at the back of the neck when folded over. The front of the coat is cut broad and the back narrow, forcing an erect stance or may even throw the shoulders back. The fit is very close. The sleeves are very long, meaning to end at the wrist or longer, with the cuffs adding another 3 inches so that the sleeves with cuffs end at the knuckles of the hand. The sleeves fit very closely except at the top where they are puffed and full. The shoulders are cut very narrow. There are two separate tails that overlap at center back. The coat has an inside breast pocket and there are two tail pockets. The side of the front has two pocket flaps that cover the opening of the tail pockets. View A can be made with any wool. Views B and C have a collar that must be made with wool that does not ravel or ravels very little. View A lapel is a simple notched collar, which could be made with the upper collar of velvet if desired. View B is a wide “M” notch. View C is a wide touching “M” notch. “Lark’s Tongue” notch and is very pointed. View D is a wide “M” notch. View E is a long touching “M” notch. The instructions have both period and modern (theatrical) tailoring instructions.
All Sizes (Chest 85 – 140 cm = 34 – 56″) included.